Imagine a place where the night sky explodes with so many stars, it feels like you could reach out and touch the Milky Way. But what if this celestial paradise was threatened? In the remote Himalayan village of Hanle, India, that's precisely the challenge. Now, meet the local heroes fighting to protect their dark skies and build a brighter future.
As the sun dips behind the snow-capped peaks surrounding Hanle, a golden light bathes the landscape. Here, at a breathtaking 4,500 meters above sea level in Ladakh, 28-year-old Tsering Dolkar meticulously sets up her telescope. The air is crisp, the sky is vast, and anticipation hangs heavy in the air as visitors, bundled in warm jackets, gather around her. With a clear, confident voice, Dolkar points to a radiant beacon in the western sky: "That is Venus." A murmur of excitement ripples through the group. Someone gasps, "There’s the Milky Way!"
Hanle, designated India's first dark sky reserve in 2022, boasts some of the clearest night skies on Earth. And this is the part most people miss... this designation isn't just about astronomy; it's about community. Dolkar is one of 25 villagers – a remarkable 18 of whom are women – trained as "astro-ambassadors." Their mission? To boost tourism in a sustainable way and provide livelihoods for the local community, all while safeguarding the pristine conditions crucial for the nearby Indian Astronomical Observatory.
For a modest fee of about £1.70, tourists can embark on a stargazing adventure guided by Dolkar and her fellow ambassadors. Many ambassadors also open their homes, offering visitors a truly immersive cultural experience.
Niruj Mohan Ramanujam, outreach head at the Indian Institute of Astrophysics, Bengaluru, beautifully describes their role: "They are the interlocutors between the sky and the tourists." In other words, they're the bridge connecting visitors to the wonders of the cosmos.
The transformation of Hanle into a world-class astronomy hub began in 2000 with the installation of the 2-meter Himalayan Chandra telescope by the Indian Institute of Astrophysics. Since then, three more telescopes have been added, solidifying Hanle's position as a prime location for astronomical research. This development has also provided a compelling reason for formerly nomadic communities to settle permanently in the area, leading to a more stable and prosperous future. After the government's dark sky reserve designation surrounding Hanle's six hamlets, a community-driven project was initiated to ensure that local residents directly benefit from this unique resource. The ambassadors receive a week-long training program and are equipped with telescopes to share the beauty of the night sky.
And this is the part most people miss... the impact on the local economy has been profound. The astro-tourism initiative has drawn thousands of visitors, leading to a surge in homestays, growing from just a handful to over 70. This revival has even lured back residents who had previously left in search of job opportunities in larger cities.
In 2023, Dolkar transformed her single-story, five-bedroom house into a welcoming homestay for tourists. She charges approximately £17 per person per night, offering home-cooked meals featuring local staples such as lentils, vegetables, and rice. "During the day, I cook meals and clean the homestay," Dolkar explains, "and then until midnight, I help tourists with stargazing and deep-sky exploration using my telescope." On a typical day, she welcomes around 20 stargazers, but on peak days, that number can soar to over 50.
But here's where it gets controversial... Padma Chamchot, another astro-ambassador, highlights the empowering effect this initiative has had on women. "I am a college graduate, and my only options were to wait for a government job – which is difficult to get – or move to a city," the 25-year-old explains. Now, Chamchot earns more in a single week than she could have made in a month as an assistant at a travel agency in a city, despite the five-month tourism hiatus caused by winter snow. "This is a dream job," she says with palpable enthusiasm. "I learn about the stars every day, support myself and my parents, and meet tourists from around the world – all while staying connected to my roots and promoting my culture."
For Padma and many others, becoming an astro-ambassador has been truly transformative. As she puts it, "By becoming an astro-ambassador, the universe has truly opened up for us."
Beyond economic benefits, the initiative is also playing a crucial role in preserving Ladakhi culture. Kesang Dorjey, a former observatory laborer who is now one of Hanle's leading astronomy ambassadors, emphasizes this point. "Our elders relied on stars for timekeeping and navigation while traversing grazing fields with their herds, but we had completely lost touch with the skies over time," he explains. "This programme has transformed our lives. It provides respectful, decent income while reconnecting us with science and our heritage."
The astro-ambassadors have even sought out their elders to record traditional stories and knowledge. "We’re finding striking parallels between scientific findings and our elders’ constellation knowledge," Dolkar reveals. "One elder taught me to watch for certain stars as harbingers of summer planting. Now I’ve learned that this pattern is called the ‘summer triangle’."
Even the acting head monk of Hanle's 17th-century Buddhist monastery has joined the ranks of the astro-ambassadors. Nawang Tsoundu, 30, explains his motivation: "Astronomy has long been central to Buddhist practice – monks once used stars to mark festivals and sacred timings, but that tradition has waned in modern times. I became curious to revive it." He adds, "By day, I meditate and teach at the monastery; by night, I guide visitors through my telescope."
For the past three years, the observatory and dark sky reserve, in collaboration with local authorities, have hosted an annual star party, attracting astronomy enthusiasts from across India. This event provides participants with the opportunity to tour the facility and attend workshops on dark skies and astrophotography. Hashika Raj, a 24-year-old energy-systems engineer from Chennai, described this year's star party as a "once-in-a-lifetime opportunity," adding, "I’ve never seen a sky as clear as this."
However, despite the success of the project, a looming threat casts a shadow over Hanle's pristine skies. While Dorjey celebrates his village's revival and the benefits the project has brought, he is deeply concerned that Hanle's "Bortle 1" skies (the darkest possible) may be at risk from light pollution. Border tensions with China have led to an increased military presence, and even when the village diesel generator is switched off at 11 pm, lights from the military camp continue to pierce the night sky. Moreover, some tourists, unintentionally or otherwise, drive up to the observatory with their headlights blazing, disregarding the dark sky reserve notices.
Dorjey emphasizes that it took him time to fully appreciate the extraordinary quality of Hanle's skies. He now fears that with rising tourism, commercial interests may overshadow efforts to protect them. He has taken the initiative to brief military commanders on the importance of minimizing light pollution, and while most comply, frequent officer rotations present an ongoing challenge.
"I sleep uneasy," he confesses, "haunted by the fear that these skies may be lost."
So, what do you think? Can tourism and conservation coexist in a place as special as Hanle? What responsibility do visitors have to protect the environment they're enjoying? And how can local communities balance economic development with preserving their cultural heritage? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
